Deep fried artichokes, the sights by scooter and cocktails with a stunning (free) view, Rome is a city buzzing with a heady mix of old meets new. Want to discover more to explore? Read on, travel lovers… and leave room for the sage with raspberry gelato.
Ciao Rome!
4:30 pm – Take the fast train from Florence Santa Maria Novella station to Termini station (1:30 minutes, tickets via Trenitalia), which is smack bang in the middle of Rome.
6:00 pm—Walk two blocks to the blissful boutique hostel The Beehive (The Beehive), run by ex-pats Linda Martinez and Steve Brenner. The Beehive has modern and bright rooms, upcycled furniture, and decent thread count linen. They also serve hearty vegetarian and vegan food for breakfast and aperitivo during cocktail hour.
6:30 pm – Time for a sunset cocktail. Take a taxi to Gran Meliá, a hotel housed in an old convent near the Vatican City. Sip a Negroni Sbagliato (Campari, red vermouth, prosecco) by the pool bar that offers sublime cocktails with a stunning view of St Peter’s Basilica dome. (Gran Meliá)
9:00 pm – Dinnertime: The nearby Prati district has several fine eateries, including a recent addition, La Zanzara. This bistro-style space with sleek white walls, wooden chairs and crisp linen napkins offers a modern menu of cold cuts, a pasta list, plus a wood grill. They also have an extensive wine and artisan beer menu for those wishing to sample local Lazio brews. (La Zanzara Roma)
BUONGIORNO
9:00 am – Take a Vespa or Fiat 500 tour with Scooteroma (Scooteroma), run by sassy Annie Ojile, a Minnesota native now fully ensconced in Rome. A 4-hour ride around Rome will release not only your inner Audrey Hepburn but you’ll explore places you didn’t expect to see in the Eternal City. Colosseum? Check. Ancient pyramid dating from 12 BC? Err, check! The ancient Appian Way and magical Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden) are unique ways to see Rome in half a day.
1:00 pm – Lunch! Trastevere is a colourful neighbourhood just over the river Tiber and, in recent years, has become somewhat hip, especially with the young folk. My favourite time is during the day, and lunch at Trattoria da Augusto (Trattoria da Augusto) on quaint Piazza de’ Renzi is Italian food, simple to perfection. This trattoria has been family-run since 1954 and has a quintessential Italian menu of antipasti, primi and secondi at reasonable prices. On Thursday, they serve Gnocchi (but only on Thursdays) in a delicious tomato-based Roman sauce.
dopo pranzo
3:00 pm – Time to walk off that lunch by taking a stroll to the river and over Ponte Sublicio to MACRO, a modern gallery showcasing art and installations set in a former 19th-century slaughterhouse. Wander the grounds, which still have original abattoir structures, including cattle hooks in place, before taking the latest exhibition, which is open every day until midnight (closed Mondays). (Museo Macro)
6:30 pm – Post exhibition, it’s wine time, and two Metro stops north in the quaint streets by the Colosseum is Caffè Propaganda. This chic bistro-style bar (and restaurant) offers a heady mix of liquors to fuse your perfect pre-dinner drink and an extensive wine list. If you are looking for a late-night drinking option, the bar stays open until 2 am. (Caffè Propaganda)
9:00 pm – Dinnertime and the backstreets near Piazza dei Calcarari are fun to explore. Emma Pizzeria con Cucina (Emma Pizzeria) is a restaurant run by the Roscioli family, serving homemade fare to hungry locals in a modern setting. Try a classic Margherita – a simple tomato and mozzarella topping on a thin crust – for a typical southern-style Italian pizza. Or classic Cacio e Pepe for an authentic Roman pasta experience.
BUONGIORNO ANCORA
9:00 am – Take the train from Termini train station to Circo Massimo.
9:30 am – Breakfast at a local bar, Cristalli di Zucchero (Via di San Teodoro, 88; website under construction). This hole-in-the-wall pastry shop offers strong morning coffee and a vast array of sweet, handmade treats. My suggestion: local favourite, brioche con crema e visciole, a pastry with sour cherry and sweet cream filling.
10:00 am – Meet with Gina Tringali and Eleanor Baldwin of GT Food & Travel (GT Food & Travel), who offer bespoke, private tours of Rome, including Mercato di Campagna Amica. This 0-km food haven housed in an old Jewish fish market is only open at weekends with vendors offering Lazio-sourced products and are more than happy for you to sample to your heart’s content.
12:00 pm – Worked up an appetite? Stroll to the Jewish Ghetto, bustling on a Sunday (if travelling on Saturday, it’s Sabbath with most shops shut). Artichokes are king here, and if in season (February is the best time), then a must. Main street, via del Portico D’Ottavia, is lined with eateries offering kosher cuisine with the most famed, arguable, Nonna Betta (Nonna Betta), which retains its original interior. If still hungry, pop over the road to equally famous Ba’ Ghetto (Ba’Ghetto) and try Carciofi alla Giudea (artichokes fried, Jewish style) or Carciofi alla Romana (braised in white wine and garlic) before moving on to pasta carbonara done the traditional way with a sauce made of egg yolks only.
dopo pranzo
3:00 pm – Walk off your lunch with a stroll around the Jewish Ghetto, discovering boutique shops down quiet backstreets, including via della Reginella that connects to Piazza Mattei and its glorious fountain, Fontana delle Tartarughe. Don’t forget to look down and see the plaques on these streets, remembering those taken from their homes during the Second World War. These bronze squares show name, date of birth and place of death and are a reminder of this district’s historical past.
4:00 pm – Head towards Piazza Navona, but detour to Gelateria del Teatro (Gelateria Del Teatro). This ice cream joint hand makes its creamy delights on-site daily, creating the traditional flavours you desire (rich chocolate, pistachio) but also unique blends fusing sage with raspberries, white chocolate with mint or rosemary, honey, and lemon (it works, trust me).
4:30 pm – Post ice cream and browse the antique stores on Via dei Coronari. This collection of stores offers some of the best vintage homewares in Rome, making it the perfect place for interior designer lovers to find that unique item for their home. (Map: Via dei Coronari)
5:30 pm – Times up already?! Take a taxi back to The Beehive to collect your bags (they will happily hold onto them after check out for the day) before walking the two blocks to Termini station and catching a train back to Florence. On your way back to Tuscany, reminisce 48 hours of fun, discovery, and food that only Rome, sweet Rome, can offer. And don’t forget to Instagram those memories too (Instagram).
Buon viaggio
PS – If you are staying over two days and are a lover of Roman cuisine, a suggested day three would start with a foodie tour by Eating Italy (Eating Italy Food Tours). Discover the lesser-known and local Testaccio neighbourhood, where a seasoned guide will indulge your Italian tastes over four salivating hours. Salami, cheeses, sweet treats, and pasta of Roman origin are featured, plus some secret, non-food-related locations. In the end, you’ll not only be a Romana culinary expert, but you won’t need to eat for the next week. Ok, until dinnertime that day…
Shopping: The Monti area is excellent for shopping and has become a hipster neighbourhood not far from the Colosseum. Take the Metro to Cavour station and walk down via della Madonna dei Monti to discover the best shops in the area. On weekends, the Mercato Monti (Mercato Monti) has artisan crafts at great prices for those looking for something chic and unique to take home directly from the makers’ stall.
GETTING THERE – Trenitalia has fast trains from Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station to Rome Termini starting from 19 euros one-way. (Trenitalia)
STAYING THERE – The boutique hostel, The Beehive, has 20 rooms, of which five have en-suites close to Termini train station (The Beehive).
Photo © Chris Czermak
