Many of us dream of being born in a castle full of grand rooms adorned with ancient amour and the grounds surrounded by green rolling hills as far as the eye can see. And if this castle also came with one of the finest wine estates in Italy, most would shout a collective ‘si’ if offered the keys. Such is life for Francesco Ricasoli, who was born in the majestic Castello Brolio, once a medieval fort that today has Romanesque and non-Gothic additions, making it one of the finest stately homes in Italy. The estate also houses Italy’s oldest winery, Barone Ricasoli, which dates back to 1141. It is set in the classic Chianti countryside and neatly between Florence and Siena.
The Ricasoli family’s ancestry dates back even further to the seventh century. Today, the current 32nd Baron, Francesco, runs the vast estate, producing award-winning wines from 1200 hectares of land. Great-grandfather Bettino Ricasoli is credited with creating the official recipe for Chianti wine in the 19th century and is keen to compete with the French wine market of the day.
A man of many accomplishments, Bettino was not just set on transfixing the Italian wine industry. Still, also the country was part of the Italian Risorgimento, the unification and creation of Italy in 1860, and became one of its first prime ministers. Today, Francesco is adamant about keeping these family values and wine traditions alive using old techniques with modern machinery and a sleek tasting room open for visitors all year round to enjoy some of the fourteen fine labels the winery creates. So, when not gracing the rooms of a grand castle or surrounded by his vineyards, how does a Baron of Tuscany spend his spare time? Here, Francesco shares his NINE.
1. Galleries I Love
A great place to visit that you rarely will find in guidebooks is the Museo Stibbert. I have always been interested in weapons, especially swords. I am fortunate to have quite a collection from my family; we have a dynastic Armory open to the public. When I have some free time, the Stibbert Museum is a beautiful place where I can see pieces from many centuries all over the world. In addition, it has a lovely garden with a villa from the 1800s.
2. For A Perfect Dinner
Ristorante Buca Lapi in the centre of Florence is one of my favourites as its food is exceptionally fresh and seasonal, and the atmosphere is very relaxed. If you can get out to the countryside, Michelin-starred restaurant La Bottega del 30 in Villa a Sesta is worth the drive!
3. For A Sweet Treat
I don’t have much of a sweet tooth, but if I am in the mood, I will walk over to Gelateria La Carraia by the river Arno, which has excellent gelato and incredible views. If you can time it right, go around sunset to enjoy the views of the Arno, a nice reprieve from being in the busy centre of Florence.
4. My Florence Style
I travel often so I buy most of my clothes in Florence. My style is classic, although jeans are the perfect way to go when I have some downtime. I have been buying my shirts for a long time at Simone Abbarchi on Borgo Santissimi Apostoli and my shoes from Sutor Montellassi in Via della Vigna Nuova.
5. Favourite Shopping Stores
If I am in Florence, I like to go very early in the morning when there are no tourists in Mercato Centrale in San Lorenzo. The first stop is an espresso at Antica Pasticceria Sieni and then immediately to the ground floor of the ‘real’ Central Market. I go to the fresh fish area, where I find Pescheria Dolfi. I enjoy cooking, so I always leave with much more than I intended to buy!
6. For Sunset Cocktails
At the end of a long day, an aperitivo is a must! I like to return to the Chianti countryside, but SE·STO on Arno at the Westin Excelsior is spectacular if I am in Florence. Or if I prefer something more low-key, Harry’s Bar is a great solution.
7. For Art & Culture
Tuscany is a treasure cove of places to see and endless possibilities. I am fortunate to be so close to so many openings and events. At this moment, I am particularly interested in a new exhibit called The Art of the Treasure Hunt. Barone Ricasoli and other wineries in Chianti Classico host a contemporary art display at Castello di Brolio.
8. Favourite Green Space in Florence
I would say that the Bardini and Peyron Gardens are truly spectacular. The gardens are immaculately cared for and stunning, and in my opinion, one of Florence’s best-kept secrets.
9. Escape to the Countryside
Of course, how can I talk about a place in the countryside without suggesting a visit to Castello di Brolio! It has art, culture, food and outstanding wines if I can brag a little.
Barone Ricasoli wine tasting room and restaurant, Osteria del Castello, is open all year round. Castle garden visits from March to October. Picnics on the estate grounds, private tours of the castle or visits to the museum and chapel are available from spring. Find all the details on www.baronericasoli.com
Photo © Francesco Ricasoli | Portrait by Stefano Caffarri
