The journalist and author of Lost in Florence shares her passion for the Renaissance capital. Nardia is also the author of Florence Beyond Overtourism in the September 2019 issue of Dream of Italy.
Nardia Plumridge is an Australian writer who did what many of us dream to do – pack up and move to Italy. After living in London for ten years, the lure of Italy, a country she discovered in her teens, was still stuck, and she spent the fall of 2010 immersed in la dolce vita in her favourite city, Florence. Those few months turned into years during which she launched a website, Lost in Florence, to celebrate the independent artisans of the city she had met and admired, those keeping the traditions of craftsmanship alive with a modern twist. The website has been featured in Lonely Planet and Forbes, among other notable publications, and recently made into a book by renowned lifestyle publisher Hardie Grant; it is being translated into Italian for a spring 2020 release by respected Italian publisher Giunti Editore.
1. You’re from Australia, originally. How did you end up living in Florence?
My love affair with Florence runs deep and began on my 15th birthday. I was travelling through Europe with my parents and sister, and we ended up in Florence. I remember celebrating in a trattoria with lots of frivolity. And something just clicked. Even though we had visited London, Paris, Amsterdam, and later Rome and Athens, Florence stayed in my heart, and I vowed that birthday night to return one day when I was older to live ‘for a summer’, which I eventually did in 2010.
2. How has Florence changed in the years you’ve lived there?
Quite a lot. My first adult experiences were in the early 2000s when my sister lived in Florence for over five years. I was in London then, so I would come out regularly for long weekends or holiday trips over Easter and Christmas. I remember Italy when the lira was still in use! The most significant change has been in more recent years. For example, in 2010, Piazza Santo Spirito was bohemian, with bars like Volume filled with students from Charles Cecil’s studio sketching strangers and playing chess. Now, it is filled with travellers knowing that Oltrarno is considered the place to be. Florence a few years ago was yet to see the recent influx of sleek industrial style venues and craft coffee that has become more normalized, and winters were still quiet and without the tour groups – that doesn’t exist anymore.
3. It probably has become more crowded. What’s your take on over tourism in Florence?
It’s a tricky one because I am a tourist in Italy, too. However, the difference is between someone who wants to immerse themselves in the city and culture and those who simply check off a to-do list without enjoying it for a more profound experience rather than just an Instagram picture. Many visit Florence for a day, see the three main squares and two key galleries, and then leave. They don’t take it slow; more importantly, they give back to the community with the tourist dollar. That is something I am keen to promote more of – sustainable and slow travel in Italy and beyond. The best way to do this is to stay a few days and put your tourist dollars into local businesses.
4. What are some ways visitors can still get Lost in Florence?
Florence is such an incredible city as it offers everything en masse – from cultural pursuits with its galleries and museums (over 100) to incredible eateries for classic or contemporary Italian dishes. To get lost is to take a street or two back from the main thoroughfares, wander, explore, and say ciao to a shopkeeper. They will often give you insider tips on what to see and do. Stay at a boutique hotel like the new Peruzzi Residences or Splendid Oltrarno, where you’ll live like a local and be treated like a friend. Plus, you’re investing in local businesses, which is so important.
5. Do you have a strategy or recommended tour guide for seeing the art on a first trip to Florence?
Guides are fantastic; like any teacher, you’ll get more out of a great one. ArtViva and Context Travel offer fantastic tours with small groups using qualified guides. Taste Florence is an original food tour company that is ideal for a morning at the markets. For a private tour, I adore Alexandra Lawrence at Explore Florence.
6. Florence isn’t just about historical art; modern art plays a role in the city. Where do you like to enjoy it?
Casamonti Collection is a lovely space to pop into for modern pieces and inside Palazzo Bartolini Salimbeni; Forte Belvedere in the summer for its sculpture exhibitions and city views; Palazzo Strozzi hosts beautifully curated shows all year round; and Gallery Hotel Art foyer for their latest mini show with a cocktail afterwards at Fusion Bar.
7. Who are some of your favourite locals, and where can we meet them?
Sara Amrhein is a Californian native who lives in Florence. She makes incredible polymer clay and bead jewellery. Her designs are bright and bold, and her studio is tucked by Piazza Compi in Sant’ Ambrogio.
Clara Soto is another favourite for her divine handmade bags. Her artisan mother, who is based in Argentina, makes handcrafted jewellery.
Jane Harman has a quaint store in San Frediano with unique wooden pieces for the home or to wear. Her background is as a restorer, and she has branched out with pieces ideal for taking home as a souvenir.
Sbigoli Terrecotte, just down the road from the Duomo, is a favourite for hand-painted pottery from a family-run business that dates back to 1857. Antonella Chini Adami, who is now in her 80s, still hand-paints the terracotta pieces, and everything is still fired in their on-site kiln.
8. I am always asked about the best places to buy leather in Florence. Can you share a favourite or two?
I adore the old-world charm at Scuola del Cuoio, which is housed in the back of Santa Croce church. Just finding it is half the fun, and their products are authentic and stylish. Benheart is a recent addition to the shopping scene. A local designer with a passion for quality leather and modern fashion pieces, Benheart is great for jackets and handbags in the softest leather.
9. What is another exciting souvenir or gift visitors can buy in Florence?
Florence Factory opened in 2018 on via dei Neri as a showroom of local artisans in one place. They curate the best items from the nearby workshops, from fashion to ceramics and home wear. Owners Jacopo and Lorenzo believe in supporting local talent. Being a book lover and writer, the handmade paper and leather bound notebooks at Il Torchio by Erin Ciulla is a favourite – pop in to see her at work, as her space is a half shop, half studio. Also, the markets in Piazza Santo Spirito have vintage and new items for the home every second Sunday of each month.
10. What are the must-eat dishes in Florence, and where do you recommend that visitors try each?
For the adventurous, lamprodotto is a must-try even once – Da Nerbone within the food market at San Lorenzo is ideal early in the morning for this offal sandwich washed down with a glass of chianti wine. Cingiale, wild boar, is a favorite ragu with pappardelle pasta. I love the austere surroundings of Trattoria dell’Orto in San Frediano for this dish. As a truffle lover, the finger sandwiches and wine selection at Procacci can’t be beaten.
11. I love how you detail different daylong itineraries in the book depending on what a visitor is seeking. If you had to create your own ideal day in Florence, what would be on the itinerary?
It would be a mix of the four itineraries I wrote for the book Lost in Florence. Start the day at Caffe Gilli for a cappuccino, pastries, and people-watching, a stroll around Palazzo Strozzi for their latest exhibition, and then window shop around via Tornabouni and Borgo Santi Apostoli. Lunch at Il Santo Bevitore in Santo Spirito, then peruse the jewellery at Angela Caputi a few doors down post-meal. Aperitivo at sunset at Se.Sto on the rooftop top of the Westin Excelsior, dinner and a show at Teatro del Sale in Sant Ambrogio. The beauty of Florence is there is so much to do that you can mix it up depending on your mood for food, culture, or shopping.
12. Which market do you frequent the most and why?
For food, Sant ‘Ambrogio is the most authentic and a great place to grab your seasonal veggies. The antiques at Fortezza da Basso on the third weekend each month are fun to peruse for dressing the home; for cheap homewares, head to Cascine Park on a Tuesday morning, with its 3km stretch of stalls along the river Arno open until 2 p.m.
13. I know it is hard to choose, but where is your favourite place to get gelato, and which flavours do you order?
Location is always key – depending on where I am in the city. I am often riverside, so Gelateria Santa Trinita for their black sesame and La Carraia for their cheesecake, every time!
14. What still surprises you about Florence?
Even after all these years, I still get a thrill from Florence. It is a city buzzing and constantly evolving with new eateries, galleries, and venues with 21st-century flair. The continued passion of artists and artisans keeps the city alive in a uniquely Florentine way with their studio setups and focus on hand-crafted goods. There isn’t a city like Florence anywhere else in the world.
